Once you get a hang for bespoke suits, chances are you will never settle for anything less. Bespoke suits reflect your unique personality and styling to perfection. It is the most effective way of leaving your stamp and standing apart from the crowd. If you already own a tailormade suit in traditional style, perhaps you’d like your second suit to be a little different.
A second suit will be a perfect addition to your wardrobe for special occasions when you want a more flamboyant look. It need not be too ostentatious but something with more spunk and dazzle compared to your regular wear bespoke suit.
Now that you already have a suit in traditional charcoal grey or navy blue, your second suit can be a little more colourful. Brown suits in worsted fabric look wonderful during autumn.
Similarly, for summer, you can opt for bespoke suits in lighter shades of grey or cream for a casual, summery look.
Vintage shades like solid green or rich burgundy are also perfect for making a style statement at informal gatherings or office parties. They also look great on special occasions like a wedding.
In all probability, your first suit flaunts the ever-popular pinstripe pattern or is in a solid shade. Be a little experimental when ordering your second bespoke suit.
The wider chalk stripe is a great pattern for creating a sophisticated, old-world style. When crafted into a three-piece suit, they offer the best of traditional design combined with trendy styling.
Other patterns to consider include herringbone, houndstooth, sharkskin, window checks and birdseye. If you are confident of wearing something more outstanding, you can even opt for floral patterns or the classic paisley.
Instead of the usual two straight-pocket style with flaps, you can opt for slanted pockets for your second bespoke suit. This design adds more character and depth with its unusual, stylish design.
Slanted pockets flatter the shape of your torso while drawing attention to your waist. They perfectly complement the unique build of your body making you look more handsome and dashing. You can also add a ticket pocket for an asymmetrical look that is sure to make your second bespoke suit more interesting and fashionable.
Buttons are probably the first thing people notice about your suit when you stand close to them. They often become the focal point of your bespoke suit and speak volumes about your signature style and personal preference. While the options are endless, what matters most is that the button should gel in perfectly with your bespoke suit.
Buttons in colours that contrast with the shade of your suit look really cool and stylish. For example, a suit in mid-blue shade looks stunning with buttons in dark horn. The brownish shade of the buttons perfectly complements the blue of the suit, creating a striking effect.
For special occasions like a wedding, consider choosing buttons in mother-of-pearls for a really glamorous look.
Grooms today are no longer ready to take the second spot when it comes to wedding attire. While brides have always stolen the show with their elaborate gowns, flowers and accessories, grooms are ready to be experimental too!
Men, today, are more fashion conscious than ever and keeping with their demand and aspirations, tailoring houses too, are crafting diverse styles for the perfect bespoke wedding suit.
Crafting a Bespoke Wedding Suit
Choosing the right wedding suit is indeed a daunting task. You want it to reflect your signature style, be glamorous yet comfortable, suitable for the occasion and within your budget.
With so many styles, fabrics, shades and other details to consider, it is best to book a consultation with your tailor months in advance. It usually takes two or even three months for your bespoke wedding suit to be tailored to your specifications. So be sure to keep your dates in mind.
The styling of your bespoke suit depends a lot on how formal or informal you want it to be. With the lady in your life making most of the wedding plans, you have time on your hands to browse through men’s fashion magazine or the internet to do some research. A little knowledge will help you to communicate your ideas better.
There are primarily four choices when it comes to choosing your bespoke wedding suit style.
The Morning Dress
The morning dress is the traditional British attire for grooms. It is a remarkably elegant formal wear that is most preferred for daytime weddings. It comprises a jacket which is always referred to as the ‘morning coat’, contrasting waistbands along with striped trousers. Many grooms also prefer a single colour ensemble where the morning coat, the waistband and the trousers are all of the same shade and fabric.
Typical gray and ‘morning gray’ are the most appropriate colour for your bespoke wedding suit.
The Three-Piece Suit
The three-piece suit is another great daytime option that perfectly combines style with tradition. It comprises a jacket, the trousers and a waistcoat.
The jacket can be either single-breasted or double-breasted. Single-breasted jackets typically have one or two buttons for fastening. A double-breasted jacket, on the other hand, can have four or six buttons with six-buttons being the most preferred choice.
The three-piece suit offers enough flexibility in terms of colour and fabrics to suit your personal preference.
Nothing makes you look as debonair as a classic black tuxedo but it should be worn only for evening weddings. The tuxedo is never a daytime attire for grooms. The classic tuxedo comprises a jacket with peaked lapels and a waistband with the compulsory silk bow tie. Never combine a bow tie with a suit or a full-length tie with a tuxedo.
A tuxedo is immediately identifiable by its satin lapels. Most tuxedos either have a peaked lapel or the more traditional shawl lapel. It should always be in shades of midnight blue or black i.e., after-dark colours that complement the natural ambience of the evening.
The tailcoat is another option to consider if you and your entire family (including the bride’s) are purists at heart. However, the tailcoat is a very traditional design and leaves little room for creativity.
The attire is an extremely delicate one and reserved only for very formal occasions. So think again before investing in a tailcoat as your wedding may be the only day you will be able to wear it.
By now, you have an idea about the styling you like best. But do keep in mind that you are investing a substantial amount on a bespoke wedding suit. It would be wise to select a style that can be worn on other special occasions too.
Next, it’s time to choose the right fabric. Your tailor is always there to offer gentle guidance on the perfect fabric depending on the location and the season. The styling also affects the choice of fabric.
If you are planning for a winter wedding, opt for heavy fabrics that look extremely sophisticated while offering the right comfort. Fabrics such as pure wool or blends of wool and silk or wool and mohair are perfect for a winter bespoke wedding suit. These gorgeous fabrics perfectly dominate the pristine whiteness all around and make you really stand out.
If you love spring or summer weddings (as most people do), the fabric should be lighter so so you don’t feel stuffy on your special day. The most preferred fabric is linen or a blend of linen and cotton. The fabric is light and breezy in keeping with the season and keeps you cool throughout the day. However, suits made of linen, linen-blends and cotton should fit really well. Otherwise, they may not retain their shape and make you look unflattering.
Again, keep in mind the location too. If you are getting married in the UK in the middle of winter, heavier fabrics are your best best. However, if you are planning a tropical beach wedding, linen or linen-cotton blend is best.
The colour is of significance too as not all colours suit all styles. The tuxedo, for example, should always be black or midnight blue (as mentioned above). The morning coat is traditionally grey. A three-piece suit can be in shades of blue from light to deep or grey from light to dark charcoal tones.
Again, like fabrics, the season and the location play a major role. Warm and dark shades are the best options for winter while lighter shades of cream or beige are more suitable for a summer wedding.
You can be experimental too and add a little more colour. For grooms who are unabashed, shades of burgundy or deep green are perfect for leaving their distinct stamp on their wedding day.
There’s nothing better than wearing a bespoke suit on your big day. Christies Tailors craft made to measure suits that will help you look your best on your wedding day. Contact us today to schedule a consultation.
Your workplace attire speaks a thousand words about your professional image. Many people have an inherent knack for styling and know how to steal the show. However, most people don’t and unfortunately end up spending on suits that are most unsuitable for a smart and professional look. If you belong to the second category, knowing something about business suits will help you choose the right one.
Whether you are a traditionalist or a follower of trends, business suits are formal attires and look best in shades of solid navy blue or charcoal grey. These are classic shades that ooze style and understated confidence.
Suits in these two colours are a must-have in your collection of workplace attire. Both are versatile shades and look equally good at boardroom meetings and for everyday wear. All other shades of grey are acceptable as a second choice or when you want a little change in your regular wear.
The other shade is solid black but it is best kept for informal office gatherings.
These days trends are changing and other traditional bold shades such as deep green or burgundy are making a comeback. Even lighter shades are permissible at offices that encourage a casual, fun environment throughout the week.
However, it takes a lot of confidence to carry off such unusual shades with élan so don’t just buy them on an impulse. If you are not used to wearing such offbeat suit colours, it is safest to stick to grey and blue.
The way the suit is cut makes a huge difference to its appearance. There are primarily three different cuts to choose from. These are the Italian cut, the British cut and the American cut.
The Italian cut is a trendy silhouette with a slim fit. It flaunts padded shoulders and is usually made of lightweight fabric. This cut is ideal for those with a tall and lean structure.
The classic British cut or the ‘Saville Row’ cut is a regular fit suit that spells traditional styling at its best. The shoulders are thick with tapered padding and the suits are made from heavier fabrics. This elegant cut suits those with an average build.
The American cut spells confidence combined with casual corporate styling. The fit is loose, the shoulders have minimal or no padding and the material is of average thickness. This cut is particularly suitable for those with a large build.
Business Suit Style
The traditional business suit with two buttons and a straight cut is corporate styling at its simplest form. This is the most common style that looks great on most people. It also works for purists who love to stick to a particular standard.
If you are the experimenting type or are not afraid of flaunting diverse styles at the office, you can opt for the double-breasted suit or a three-piece suit.
The double-breasted suit is a vintage design that has made a comeback in recent times. Many people consider this old school design as really fashionable and a great way to make a style statement. The double-breasted suit has six buttons and an overlapping of the fabric at the torso region to add more bulk to the suit.
The three-piece suit looks extremely dynamic and trendy on those who can carry off the complex styling. As the three-piece suit requires you to wear a waistcoat beneath your jacket, it is quite bulky and needs to fit really well.
When you are investing in a good double-breasted or a three-piece business suit (these don’t come cheap), it is prudent to go for bespoke or made-to-measure tailoring. This will ensure a perfect fit, which is so important to create that right look.
As for patterns, nothing beats the pin-stripe; it’s the quintessential business suit pattern. It’s extremely popular and one you can wear to work every day.
There are several other patterns to choose from such as the wider chalk stripe, the houndstooth, herringbone, plaid, glen check (classic British pattern), windowpane and sharkskin.
Choosing the right pattern can be difficult and once the suit is made, it cannot be undone if you don’t like the final look. So consulting a tailoring house for a made-to-measure or bespoke suit is your best bet. Your tailor will offer sound advice and help you choose a pattern that suits you best.
The fabric you choose also plays a significant role in how your business suit looks and how long it lasts. Durability is of prime importance as a business suit is everyday office wear and it has to take a lot of impact.
From sitting for hours at your workstation to pushing your way around during your daily commute or covering a long-distance flight, your business suit goes through a lot of daily wear and tear. A durable fabric will last for years without losing shape. A heavier fabric is more durable and will hold its shape for years.
Of all the materials to consider, cashmere wool is the best for a business suit. It is lightweight, allows enough breathability to keep you comfortable and is sturdy enough to retain its shape even after years of use.
Apart from cashmere wool, other materials to consider include a blend of silk and wool or pure wool.
For important occasions like boardroom meetings or meeting notable clients, a suit made of heavy fabric has a deeper impact than those made from lightweight materials.
The way the trousers are tailored also adds a character to your business suit. The trousers should fit perfectly at the waist and be long enough to just touch your shoelaces. Or for a slimmer look, you may opt for a thin hemming at mid-ankle length.
Trousers with flat fronts look neat and traditional while those with pleats look trendier and offer more space just below the waist. The trousers should be thicker at the waistband, around the crotch area and at the seams to help them retain the fall.
Looking to stitch a bespoke business suit? At Christie’s Tailors, we craft the finest business suits that are completely made to measure and hand stitched. Click here to schedule a consultation with one of our master craftsmen.
A made-to-measure suit gives you the perfect opportunity for flaunting your own distinct signature style. It is the most efficient way of having a beautifully made suit that fits you perfectly and gives shape to your style aspirations.
Crafted from a template that suits you perfectly, a made-to-measure suit is a must-have when you want to make a statement with personalised styling. Whether it’s a formal occasion, a business meeting, an informal gathering or your own wedding, you are sure to stand apart from the crowd in your unique made-to-measure suit.
Creating Your Own Made-to-Measure Suit
Since a made-to-measure suit is made just for you, your inputs are of vital importance. After all, your tailor will customise it per your specifications. If you are confused, it would be prudent to browse through some men’s fashion magazine to understand the latest styles and cuts. The internet is also a great place to understand more about how you would like your made-to-measure suit to be tailored.
Your tailor will work on your initial inputs and improve upon it further.
The Consultation Process
Once you have something in mind, book a consultation session with your tailor. The consultation session is a complicated process as you would be making a lot of decisions. You will have to choose the cloth, colour, design, cut and more.
However, it is the first step towards creating your made-to-measure suit. The research you have done (as mentioned in the point above) will come handy if you already know something about these.
Of course, your tailor is always there to guide you in taking the right decision. Your tailor will ask you several questions like how often you plan to use the suit, whether you want a winter suit or a summer suit or something suitable throughout the year, any special occasions you want to wear the suit to and so on.
A detailed discussion will help you take the right decisions. It also ensures that your made-to-measure suit turns out exactly the way you imagined.
Choosing the Fabric
Once the consultation process is over, it’s time to choose the fabric. Your tailor is likely to stock over a thousand different fabrics sourced from the best mills from across the world.
The first step is to choose a fabric that doesn’t weigh too much. The lightest fabrics weigh between 8oz and 9oz while heavy fabrics weigh between 14oz and 15oz. A 12oz fabric is a good middle ground for suits that can be worn throughout the year.
Next, you will have to choose the shade and the pattern. While shades cover the entire spectrum from light to dark, typical patterns include pinstripes, checks and birdseye. Of course, you can stick to bold solid shades if you love minimalist styling. The choice of cloth has a significant impact on the pricing of the final product.
You will also have to choose what sort of construction you need – fully-canvassed to half-lined. The way the suit is constructed also affects the pricing.
The Suit Measurements
Now it’s time for your measurement. Some master tailors are likely to just keep you standing for minutes while they judge your structure from every angle. A visual inspection allows the tailor to understand the type of adjustments that need to be made depending on your posture, build and physical symmetry.
The actual measurement process begins after this. Several measurements are taken such as those of your waist, chest, seat, length of sleeves, shoulder distance and so on.
Next, you will be asked to try out a suit that matches your preference. Once you have worn it, your tailor will pin it at various places to shape it according to your unique structure. This will be the template the tailor will use while working on the actual fabric.
Although a laborious and unenjoyable process, this is an important step that helps your tailor to give the perfect shape to your made-to-measure suit.
After the measurements are taken, you will choose additional details that will make your suit truly yours. Your tailor is likely to ask you about the styling of the lapel, the number of buttons you want, the distance of the belt loops, pockets with or without flaps, plain or cuff finish and so on.
Such details will help him craft the best made-to-measure suit that truly reflects your personality.
The Fitting Session
After a few weeks, you will be called for an initial fitting session. Your final suit will not be ready until the time your tailor and you are satisfied with the fit and the style.
You may have to go through a repeat fitting session if the initial one reveals certain irregularities that need correction. The fitting session is also where the length of your sleeves and trousers will be measured.
As a rule of thumb, the cuff of your shirt sleeves must be visible at least half an inch from the end of your suit sleeves. So wear a shirt you wear every day or if you plan to wear the suit with a particular shirt, then carry it with you.
For the trouser length too, a lot depends on the type of shoes you are wearing. If you have a particular shoe in mind, then wear that to the fitting session.
A few weeks later, you will be called for a final fitting session by when everything about your made-to-measure suit should be perfect. Once you have given your nod, the final processing will begin and will take another few weeks to be completed.
As you can understand, having a made-to-measure suit is an elaborate process that takes time. So book your suit in advance if you have a particular occasion in mind. Made-to-measure suits are definitely more expensive than off-the-rack ones, but they are worth every penny you spend on them. A good quality suit will last for decades; so consider it as an excellent long-term investment.
Looking to get a custom made to measure suit? Christie’s Tailors craft high quality made to measure suits for all occasions. Get in touch with us today to book your consultation.
Morning Tail suits had all but gone out of fashion a couple of years ago. Unfortunately the rise of large ill-fitting morning suits in the early part of the 2000’s all but did away with the style for traditional weddings. The increase in variety of wedding venues and the creativity of DIY weddings lead to the decrease of the more classical English wedding. However this has now changed. Couples are re-inventing the traditional wedding suit.
A slim, well fitted morning suit in the highest possible quality, minus polyester brocade waistcoats and ruffle-tie cravats are now desirable. The stylish groom in 2019 is looking for impeccable quality, the very best fit and a simple, timeless outfit that will be complimentary to his partners traditional wedding gown.
Silk ties tied in Windsor knots, double breasted waistcoats and normal collar white shirts are worn together, with no Top Hats in sight!
This is elegance and style. Effortless yet impeccable. The very best morning tail suit, for wedding images that will last a life time.
In 2019 the morning tail suit is back!
*fortunately cravats are not.